Horses are animals with a lot of corpulence, and therefore require much care. Their food is very important. This is done by two stomachs. We must maintain a balanced diet and being overweight is very harmful to your health. Your mood affects a lot on his speed. It is a fact to keep in mind if you have competition.

His must be based on carbohydrates, fats, minerals, fiber and protein. The forage is a key food. Also the horse should eat: hay, grass, fodder beet, oats, corn, bran, carrots, etc. There is also oats as feed and nutritional content. Power must follow certain routines and occasionally, giving rewards for their behavior.

With this and a good maintenance, the horse will have a healthy and youthful appearance and strong

A hamster needs a lot of care. Pets are restless. We must protect the health and rodent food to live healthy and happy.

The diet has to be varied to eat grains, vegetables, proteins. Fruits are always a good idea. We must also bear in mind that if you have more than a hamster, there might be cases of cannibalism, so you have to be very careful. Among the fruits and vegetables, both the grape and carrot are bad for them, so avoid giving them.

We must avoid certain foods. As with dogs, chocolate is almost a poison. Do not give to our pet sweets or fatty foods. Nor can digest salt.

Dry food is ideal for the rodent. Try to keep in a dry place to avoid losing their properties. You should also learn that serving is the one that best suits him to the animal. That will be more balanced diet. If you choose the vegetable, fruit and vegetables should be thoroughly washed. Also, wash food scraps and do not let it accumulate.

Finally, the hamster just need water. Leave him a little but not worry to fill their water dish every few minutes.

As a general rule, you must provide your hamster’s cage as large as possible, as you can afford, since they are very active animals and like to travel too far. You choose the location of the cage, taking into account that should be a warm and comfortable place where there are no air currents, but also from direct sunlight.

The bottom of the cage has to be a slippery material to facilitate cleaning. In addition, the hamster does not like moisture, so it is recommended to use an absorbent material to cover the cage. Just remove the urine and potential odors.

We should not ever use materials such as wool or cloths as they are not being served and also absorbent hamsters can eat them and cause digestive problems. To maintain the health of your hamster’s home, must be cleaned daily animal feces and urine. Moreover, at least twice a week, you should perform a more thorough cleaning of the cage, changing the background. The feeder is an important area, so will try to be always clean and the water bowl always with clean water.

The basic accessories that are accorded to hamster cage are: a drinking bottle, a feeding, not very big and a treadmill for your workout. Other elements are complementary and depend on the number of hamsters and space in the cage. These can be houses, stairs, towers and other accessories for the game.

An important issue for the care of our domestic birds will be feeding. Your diet should be varied and complete. These care of bird. And note that each bird is different in terms of their nutritional needs.

When adopting a rabbit for the first time it is very important to make sure you are feeding him the proper food. This will keep your rabbit healthy and happy for a long time.

1. When you first adopt your rabbit you should ask the breeder what the feeding habits are for the rabbit. It is very important to keep a rabbit on a similar schedule and with similar feed. Young rabbits seem to have a harder time changing their diet and should be slowly changed if you are needing to make any adjustments.

2. Typically a rabbit should b

Hay
Hay is an important part of every rabbit’s diet. Pet Education indicates that rabbits should have fresh hay available around the clock. Adult rabbits need timothy or oat hay to provide roughage in their diet. This reduces the risk of developing intestinal blockages.

Rabbits younger than 7 months can have alfalfa hay, but it is not appropriate for adult rabbits because of its caloric content. According to Brown, legume hays, which are hays made from alfalfa, peas or peanuts, provide too many calories for a house rabbit and can lead to obesity.

Grass hay is nutrient-rich but lower in calories, which is more appropriate for a house rabbit’s sedentary lifestyle. Brown also advises against feeding straw to rabbits. Straw has no nutrients and can lead to malnutrition if it is used as part of the rabbit’s regular diet.

Pellets
There are two different opinions regarding the use of rabbit pellets. Pet Education indicates that juvenile rabbits under 7 months can eat unlimited amounts of rabbit pellets. They have high amounts of nutrients and help to ensure that the young rabbit gains the right amount of weight.

However, limit the amount of pellets for adult rabbits to 1/4 cup per every 6 pounds of body weight. Pellets are high in calories and can cause obesity in adult and senior rabbits.

On the other hand, Brown advises against feeding pellets to rabbits of any age. She says rabbits get all the nutrition they need from a diet of hay and vegetables, as well as from their cecotropes, which are special droppings that are full of vitamins and nutrients.

Rabbits eat these cecotropes directly from the anus. Pellets do not wear down the teeth (which rabbits need) the way hay and vegetables do, and they lead to a sluggish digestive tract.

Fruits and Vegetables
Rabbits as young as 3 months can begin eating dark leafy greens as well as root vegetables. Some particular favorites include dandelion greens, collard greens and romaine lettuce. Rabbits also enjoy fresh alfalfa and clover sprouts, green peppers, radicchio, carrots including the tops, and parsley.

Pet Education recommends feeding dark leafy vegetables such as mustard greens, spinach and kale in small amounts and limiting servings to once or twice per week because they contain salts from oxalic acid that cause toxicity after long-term use. The Humane Society also recommends limiting carrot consumption because of the starch content.

Rabbits enjoy fresh fruit, and small amounts can be provided from time to time. Apples, mangoes and papaya are acceptable in small quantities. Limit servings of bananas, grapes and dried fruit because of their high sugar content.

Because pigeons procreate in large numbers, they have come under scrutiny in many cities, and the feeding of wild pigeons has become illegal in many urban settings. Pigeons require a very specific diet in order to maintain their health, so whether you’re feeding pigeons in the wild or in your own coup, you should be careful what you do and do not feed them.

Identification

In order to maintain a healthy diet for a pigeon, you must emulate the grain intake they would get in the wild. Avoiding foods normally reserved for people, like bread, cheese and meats. Wild pigeons eat a diet filled mainly with non-fiber items like grains and seeds.

Bread is one of the most common foods that people feed to pigeons, but the complex carbohydrates in bread offer no nutritional value and could even work to starve them. Because pigeons do not have teeth, they require a supply of grit in order to digest their food. Pigeons digest and break down food through the use of the crop, which is a sack at the base of their throat and a gizzard, located at the bottom of the intestinal track.

In order for this system to work, pigeons must eat small stones and rocks, along with their food, in order to survive. Wild pigeons will get the right amount of grit naturally when they gather grain and seeds, but domestic pigeons must be fed processed shell grit along with their normal diet.

Considerations
Foods required for a healthy pigeon include dried field peas and corn. They are high in protein and help build strong muscles and maintain a pigeons plumage. Corn, however, can store in a pigeon’s body as fat, so it should only be fed to a pigeon in limited quantities during the winter months. Wheat and sorghum are staple grains for wild pigeons and can also be found in domestic pigeon seed mixes. Some wild pigeons eat small quantities of green plants as well. A full-grown pigeon will eat about 500 g of grain each week.

Misconceptions
A common myth claims that eating uncooked rice will cause a pigeon to explode. The myth claims that pigeons are unable to digest the grain and when it expands in their stomachs, it has nowhere to go. In truth, birds often depend on flooded rice fields for feed while migrating north, and animal biology experts say that uncooked rice is no different than that which birds feed on in the wild.

Warning
Pigeons require much more water than most birds, especially during breeding season, so dehydrating foods should be avoided. Salt can dehydrate pigeons, but pigeons love salt, and will attack salt blocks reserved for pigs and sheep. Human food, especially meats, are very dangerous for a pigeon’s health. Human food can introduce bacteria to pigeons that they are not capable of fighting off. Diseases and health risks aside, feeding pigeons in the wild can make them dependent on human feeding and less likely to seek food on their own.

Potential
Human interaction and improper feeding of domestic and wild pigeons is believed to be one of the reasons for the birds’ decline. While many urban areas claim that pigeon populations are out of control, the truth is that around 59 species are currently threatened by extinction, which is over 20 percent of the pigeon population. Since the 1600s, 10 species of pigeon have become extinct. While habitat loss and over-hunting are partly to blame, bird specialists believe that domestication and improper feeding has weakened the entire species.

Food
1. Pigeons eat a variety of seeds and berries and will eat beans and legumes on occasion. Baby pigeons, however, are fed by their parent’s milk. This milk is not like human or regular dairy milk in nutrient quality, although it is white.

There are several products on the market that replicate the nutritional value of pigeon milk including Kaytee Exact Baby Formula, Egg Food or a product called Chick Crumbs which must be soaked first in hot water for a half an hour then blended.

After blending, any chunks will have to be removed with a sieve so that the consistency of milk is obtained. Pigeons do not open their mouths to feed, which can make giving them the milk difficult.

Young pigeon
2. When a pigeon is very young, it will need to be fed using syringe or a tube so that the milk reaches its crop. It is very important to understand the birds anatomy when feeding with a syringe. A bird has an esophagus that leads to the crop and a trachea, in front of the esophagus, which is the wind pipe.

To feed the pigeon, the syringe must go back behind the trachea and into the esophagus. Wet the tubing of the syringe to ease the movement of it along the esophagus. Open the baby pigeon’s mouth and look inside.

At the front will be the trachea. Push the syringe tube towards the back of the throat and push down. Be very careful not to put the tube in the trachea as this may damage the wind pipe, and, if fluid is released from the syringe, it may drown the pigeon.

Buy a plastic feeding syringe and fit it with a flexible tube. Using a flexible tube will keep you from damaging the inside of the pigeon. A baby pigeon less that a week old will need to be fed with 2cc at a time. Make the mixture watery as well. Feed the baby 2cc every couple of hours. A baby should be fed between 6 and 20cc. Older pigeons will need 20 to 30cc.

Older Pigeon
3. Older pigeons will be able to swallow larger amounts of food but still will not open their mouths for feeding. At this point you can begin feeding the pigeon seeds that have been wet slightly. To feed the pigeon by hand, hold the pigeon and squeeze at the beak area gently. Do not squeeze at the throat as this will cut off their air supply. Gently press the food into the pigeon’s mouth. Do small portions at a time to prevent choking.